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PHASE 3: Repaint, solid color

Finished, front driver cornerJuly 25, 2013 – Repaint. Picture at the right is the finished project.

Here are some observations about the first two Phases of this project:

  • The strategy to use aerosol paint is valid. This is my third re-paint, and each re-paint cost under $200.
  • In the first two aerosol paint projects, I used Rustoleum products: Tremclad Professional, Rustoleum Painter’s Choice, Rustoleum Universal Metallic and Rustoleum Automotive.
    Tremclad Professional color faded quickly. Stone chips were quite pronounced.
    Rustoleum Painter’s Choice color faded quickly, paint runs are hard to control. Stone chips were quite pronounced.
    Rustoleum Universal Metallic used as the second color (bottom of the Ranger). Metal underneath rusted quickly, paint chipped easily, very hard to sand (it clumps in the sandpaper).
    Rustoleum Automotive. I started using this part way through Phase 2. The atomizing head on the aerosol can produces a paint stream quite similar to an air gun. Paint went on smoothly and looked far more professional than the other paints. The color is the same two years later with no fading, no UV damage. Definitely, this is the paint to use, and it is basically the same price as the other Rustoleum products.
    Note: Rustoleum primers. I used a variety of primers and all (except one) had similar issues. They are general purpose primers, not really for vehicles. I ended up using the Rustoleum Automotive Filler Primer and quite thrilled with it. The Rustoleum Filler Primer is every bit the equal to high-end spray-gun fillers I used when I owned a bodyshop. Allow to dry for two hours and the Filler Primer sands beautifully -- and fills-in light scratch marks.
  • This time around, I am going with a solid color: black.
  • My 2003 Ranger FX4 had only two doors left of the original Ranger. Because of the silver second color I used in my aerosol paint project, the rust took hold of the bottom of these two doors. I have replaced these two doors now and had to take some action on the other doors to stop rust from taking over those as well. The only paint I plan on using from now on is the Rustoleum Automotive. Period.
  • In Phase 2, I replaced the tailgate with an asian knock-off. It was cheap, and has started to rust. I did have a rust-free tailgate from a donor 2007 Ranger and have now used that.

Rustoleum Filler Primer Rustoleum Filler Primer At the left: The Rustoleum Automotive (Enamel) colors: Black in Gloss, Semi-Gloss, and Flat. Also in White, Red, and Yellow. In addition to enamel, the Automotive series is also available in Acrylic Enamel, Acrylic Lacquer.

At the right: The Rustoleum Filler Primer, available in grey or "red".

I am not planning a full tear-down as in the previous phases. This is basically just a touch up, and removing the second lower color.

This is a series of articles based on my experiences painting my 2003 Ford Ranger FX4 with aerosol paint cans. Rather than spend a minimum of $2100 on a bodyshop paint job, I decided to be utilitarian and do it myself for approximately 10% of the bodyshop prices. The prep, bodywork, rust repair, and painting was all done in my driveway, with no shelter from the elements. I chose Rustoleum aerosol paint. In Canada, Rustoleum is brande both as Rustoleum and Tremclad. The first cans I purchased were Tremclad Professional that worked out to 2.4 cents per gram. The results were disappointing (no shine, lots of fish-eye) so I switched to Rustoleum Painter’s Choice Ultra Cover 2X that worked out to 2.1 cents per gram. In the final analysis, the paint to use is the Rustoleum Automotive – the nozzle on the can produces a much finer stream and applies the paint much like an compressor/air-gun. I am simply documenting my experiences using aerosol cans to repaint my vehicle.
Copyright 2015, Andy Prevost. All Rights Reserved.